Waves bigger than hurricane Maria from september 24-27!!!

Starting friday am all the way through mid-next week, are INSANE waves in big wind. Should be interesting.

I got into the surf before six, really foggy and wind slowly blowing. DARK. Because the boards are already packed for our trip to hawaii tomorrow, I bodyboarded instead of surfed. Three hours and a hundred waves later, I got out, numb from the knees down and THOROUGHLY wiped out. Body boarding scores three times the waves and is ten times more trying on the body. Its easier to get back out after ditching a wave, and I have zero fear, taking the biggest waves available. Helps to have been a swimmer once, knowing the water as if I lived in it, complete and absolute comfort. Its hard to do both though- switching back and forth is something thats easier said than done. Peole make fun of me when I ride a sponge but I care not. Not at all. I have a lot of fun doing both sports, and the single biggest advantage of body boarding is the ripped and shredded muscles I go home with, my shoulders actually hurt. Thats a workout that you cannot get surfing, and impossible to safely get at the gym!

Tomorrow at this time, my son and I will be going 600 miles an hour 33,000' up in the sky, hurtling towards Oahu.

Sun is coming up earlier now. Means I get up and go surfing earlier. Crack of dawn, nobody there, whole place to ourselves. Pic coming manyana!

Huge storm Sunday pushed up hurricane-sized waves Monday before dawn n I was there first, whole plact to myself and one other guy for the entire time we were there. Big, close to 18-20' faces, with beefy thicknesses and steep well-formed shoulders.

We could have gone down the road where the waves would have been perfectly formed, but we prefer the crowdless, gnarly, more sizeable meaty waves that the camera on a cellphone have difficulty capturing.

When I got out it was close to an hour before the feeling came back into my toes again, wind was howling. It was one of the most beautiful sunrises I have ever seen. The water is so cold the algae is dead making the water a clear silvery light grey-blue and when the waves obscure the sun so low in the sky one can see the true color of the water.

What a great sport!

​Today I crawled in before the sun and got out after three hours, feet completely dead white and numb for an hour afterwards. Perfectly shaped perfect waves.