Hurricane gert. Ten or so hours surfing. This is what'll happen to you and yours. Can't ask for better exercise or bonding, experiences we will never forget!
fuzzy focus boogieboarding video of two week old hurricane swell. Better videos coming
Im barely recovered from yesterday when I see yet another storm coming. Global warming. Surfers delight when hurricanes push waves up yet at the same time lives can be ruined. Such a strange contrast.
Funny how political BS permeates every single aspect of our lives. Trump says climate change is a joke. I think about that when I surf. President Bush 2nd said the same thing and nothing was done about it for eight years. Obama was thwarted in his efforts until the end of his presidency and our current president has reversed all that...
Three days of surf
This place was the only place I could go to get close with my phone but anyone watching this can get a feel for how great this sport is. Shimmering water, clear blue skies, nice warm air in early fall.
Yet another storm way off the coast pushing strong surf up for surfers. Even the little shorebreak waves were so strong they could knock you over. This is a longboard paddle board wave. A quarter mile to the left is the steeper better waves.
See what I see? Fall hurricane season is here and so are the waves. Warm water + big waves= lotsa fun.
FLAT for the foreseeable...
August 18th, 2017
Wow. Wow is all I can say when thinking about yesterday surf. Hurricane 1,000 miles out to sea pushing up gigantic waves with favorable wind on a beautiful sunny summer day.
Usually in the summer we have little tiny waves (you take what you can get) with 8 second periods. Yesterday the back sides of the waves I estimated to be about ten feet and the period between the waves was about 14 seconds. That means all the wave strength was focused into these giant waves, and we really can't ask for more. It was probably the best day of surf I have ever had on the east coast. Certainly not a day for swimming in the ocean for people who can't navigate water with confidence.
People came from all over the east coast to take advantage of what was the most desirable conditions imaginable.
If you need equipment and don't know where to buy it, this is where I have boards made for me (tell em about your skills, weight, goals, etc and they will set you up). Surf shop on the beach, contains everything you need for all ocean sports. Owned by pro surfer Lynn Shell (he actually works there, answers the phone, etc.).
If you need wetsuits, better do it in person in Rhode Island:
you can go downstairs and find any suit for any time of year, try it on, make sure it fits, ask for advice.
Body boarding comes in two forms- beginner and aggressive. Beginners push off the bottom and aggressive paddles out with surfers. Both are fun but the latter is extreme, tiring, and really really fun. You need to obey the surfing rules and you either gotta be in shape, or you gotta get in shape. You can do it all year long with the right wetsuit, and once you start, you will never stop.
No surf in the foreseeable future. All we can do is stay in shape, scuba dive, canoe at the thimble islands, and prepare equipment for this coming hurricane season.