I was WASTED from surfing six hours yesterday. Four then two then home to pass out. Wow. This am, I got in at six am, out at eight to get warm but reason grabbed a hold of me and I decided to go to the local beach pub snd get one of these (ended up not one), and an eggs benedict:
The waves were HUGE, with seventeen second periods, unheard of around here. That long period equates to enormously powerful monsters whipped up by the demon noreaster that just charged through here.
I caught two huge lefts that towered over my head and went on and on. I stood erect as if i were bored at the end of one of them like the studs in surfer magazine to see what it felt like to show off. Kinda stupid.
Paddling back out took forever because it was very high tide and there were giant blobs of water going every which way that would, at times, make a giant incoming wave jack up and be even bigger, and at other times meet the new wave and give us a ramp to paddle over the top negating the wave face. Totally absurd situation. Made it fun!
Im going back tomorrow- leaving here at three am, get there at five, in at five thirty for a morning session with the other crazies. Cool to see the sun through the waves in early am. Hopefully get another four hours in before work.
All this surfing is giving my flab and shoulders good tone.
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