Incredible storms make INCREDIBLE WAVES!!!

In at eight, out at twelve. Back in at one, out at three. Im COMPLETELY WASTED. Muscles from my calves to my neck hurt like hell. I took off on some of my biggest waves ever for me, sharing the spot with no more than one or two others all day. Heard whinng about the wind- "BOO HOO." I consider it like a giant romper room, mother nature giving you a good ride sometimes, other times completely FUCKING YOU UP. One wave I rode I thought I was going to break some teeth.

A few times, I was jostled so violently under water I was thinking that I was going to have a bit of a problem getting my next breath.

Tomorrow is going to be INSANE, with 16 second period. Thinking that I might not have ever surfed that long period wave before. Powerful swell.

​What a great sport!!!