Missing the thrill and continuity

One solid five week period of continuous world class surf conditions right here on the east coast.

UNHEARD OF!!!

Everyone agreed that nobody had ever seen it before-so good for so long. So big- never before.

Surfer's lives filled with yesterday's stories, living today's, looking forward to tomorrow's. No end in sight. And when one is in the middle of such endorphin drug-fueled drama, there's no thought to what happens when it's all over, just living like a kid in the moment. When the endorphin drug is all used up- no more waves. No more exercise. No more surf. What now? Back to life.

Certainly what we surfers lived this past month wasn't normal life. It was out of this world excitement of the rarity of Mother Nature at her finest/meanest, living totally immersed inside her. Where can we go to live inside her again? Can we go back to living our normal lives and be happy ever again? Or do we have to go on with our normal lives always thinking back to the fall of 2017, wondering what could have been if we as younger people found a place in the world where we could live this kind of life more frequently?

No surf for the foreseeable future now.

I equate this empty surfing feeling with the analogy of finding a sexy girl who was as excited with me as I was with her. Spend time with her even if it was for just one night only to take her to the airport for her flight back to her native land, never to be seen or heard from ever again. Tears in my eyes as I walk back to the airport parking lot to find my car.

Remember those days?

One could also draw parallels to alcoholics or drug addicts who are out of their chosen supply...eyes closed, dreaming of the good old well-stocked days.

There must be much more to athletic passion than athletics and physical efforts- there must be deep seated psychological addictions as well. Unknown chemical relationships between extreme physical passion, nature, exertion, etc. Whatever.

All I'm saying is that it has been really hard to get back to my life and there has to be more to that difficulty than meets the eye.

That visual of that lost love is pretty much why I took this picture on the way home last Thursday. Maria was being pushed away from us, never to be seen or heard from ever again. No more Irma, gert, Jose, or tropical depression 10. No more surf until the little crappy 8 second period waves visit us for a few hours sometime soon. So sad!

Moral of the story: enjoy what you've got when you've got it because when it's gone, you don't want to look in the rear view and have any regrets!

I have zero regrets about the past month. I stayed in the waves each day I went to surf for continuous 6-7-8 hour periods, took every single wave I had the strength and the balls for, pushed my limits, attacked. Got better, crashed a lot. Obeyed strictly the surfers rules! Got worked... and lived my life to the absolute fullest extent possible.

Love of one's ONE LIFE does not get better than that!

My most memorable surfing rock so far