Wanna see INSANE surf???
Take the blue heights and double them, and half again maybe three times it when certain spots with their unique undercarriage is considered with the tides. Long Island blocks waves so you gotta drive. You'll see the best surfers pursuing happiness. You'll see my truck! Wish I had videos of this event. Someone told me something that happened Saturday whilst surfing nice great big perfect waves.
Two dudes, one slighted and both aggressive. Words. Testosterone. One guy dives to the ocean's shadowy depths, grabs a rock and resurfaces so he can use the rock to break the fins off the other guy's board. HUH??? Who thinks like that? Other guy paddles away from the aggressor grande. Deep diving guy, even more frustrated now that he can't break fins, hurls the just-gotten rock at paddling away guy. Retreating guy turns at the least opportune moment to hurl insults at deep diving guy just in time to meet the oncoming rock. In the nose! Result: When engaging in the pursuit of happiness, get not so enthralled with that pursuit that you end up in handcuffs with a knee in your back and parking lot sand in your eyes nose and mouth. And, if a conflict gets extremely out of hand, bow the hell out before you break your nose and lose all your front teeth. I wasn't there and wasn't involved in case you were wondering. In many aspects of life and in most pursuits, there are always assholes. Things always work out for the best if you ain't one of them! Theres never been a better fall for surf. Every day for the past two weeks or so, and for the next week there will be epic surf conditions.
My old body is wrecked from paddling for seven hours in enormously powerful waves. I saw pro surfer Greg Levy do a bottom turn on a wave, head up toward the lip at full speed and snap a turn under the lip of the wave so expertly and fast that he was actually upside down while doing it. Ive never seen anyone do that before!!! Unbelievable strength in big waves with 15 second periods, all the force of all those otherwise smaller 5-6-7 second waves pack a punch when they are focused into fewer but more forceful individual waves.
Irma was thousands of miles away but the waves made us think that she was just off the coast. Great surfing on a really nice day! Sad. It happens every now and then. Here is the link:
https://www.google.com/amp/amp.kansascity.com/news/nation-world/article171707367.html Nobody is stupid enough to think that Irma is going to be fun but way before it hits and after it passes, there might be tremendous surf for people who are experts only. Expect huge conditions and dangerous riptides.
Im guessing that Wednesday/Friday of next week but who knows. If if nothing else, one can see pictures of surfers surfing Irma on the internet. If you want to go watch the ocean's meanest personality, stay the hell away from the water. I have witnessed people do stupid things when the ocean is sick, and people either get wet, injured, or killed. Ive seen HUGE swells literally explode on jettys that have unknowing thrill seekers standing on top, roiling water tumbling over them. One year (I think it was in New Hampshire) a bunch of people were washed away and never seen again. It happens all the time in Hawaii to tourists and locals alike. Guess this current track brings Irma away from us, who knows though?
click on link to animate: http://magicseaweed.com/Mid-Atlantic-Surf-Chart/22/?type=swell Looks like yet another storm right behind it. |
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