Had to work/not surf yesterday
How the hell does one say "no" to 10' @ 16 seconds???
With great difficulty. I am almost done with this huge landscaping job and had to finish before the rain turns the place into mud.
My mind gets so deep into work that I didn't even think about what I missed out on until this morning when I saw this pic that I snapped.
MORE SURF COMING!
Another nor'easter coming tues/wed. Too early to tell but it looks like we might get something out of it. These storms kick up waves as good as any hurricane but nobody is ever there meaning you got the whole place to yourself. I guess I shouldn't be spewing this out there for everyone to read, but it could be on the front pages of the New York Times and the crowd size would remain the same- people just do not like surfing in horrible storms. I find it to be fun.
When I came home to my kid last Tuesday, I told him over and over again: "I'M HIGH AS A KITE!"
I say that each time I surf a lot. I've told him that surfing is the best drug I ever did. There is a backwards logic to this statement, bluntly hinting at the superior nature of exercise as a form of physical and spiritual enlightenment.
I have explained my theory of the evolution of hormones rewarding humanoids for hard work chasing down wooly mammoths to him his entire life. My theory is that after excruciating hard work like hunting with spears, mother nature rewarded humans not just with a full stomach but also with the best "feel-good" drugs ever created.
One does not get these drugs by sitting on the couch eating potato chips. You gotta pay the price.
They left out SEROTONIN- that's a biggie. If you were to look up what each of these hormones does inside your body you would think Jeff Sessions would want to classify them as class 1 restricted drugs and jail people for their use. These are the best feel good chemicals in the world!!!
Go get high by exercising. If you can't find a wooly mammoth to chase down and kill with your bare hands, pick up a surfboard. Maybe a bike. Go garden. Do SOMETHING!!!
An amazing study came out this past week that found that elderly people (over 50) who worked out regularly and HARD had immune systems that were similar to twenty year olds. This was true for 85 year olds also! The T-cells responsible for immune response as measured by the length of the "T" prevent cell death (aging) and attack pathogens. Additionally, the muscle tissue resembled young people also.
So you see, all those shitty difficult jobs around the yard, and those horrible hard workouts actually benefit you in ways unseen until now. I find it's better to have fun when my heart is pumping at 120 BPM instead of groaning about whatever yard work I've got to do, but when I'm faced with a shitty hard job, at least I find solace with the knowledge that it's keeping me healthy and relatively younger than my peers.
I've seen people who I consider to be my elders and found out that they are younger than me. Maybe it's because they never discovered the pure joy of having a passion in their soul like surfing for me, and biking for others, and I feel sorry for them in a way. I do not subscribe to the Archie Bunker American vision of growing older.
Surf today... BLIZZARD!
It was supposed to be big and almost hurricane-like, just the way I like it. Huge waves, dangerously deadly winds, trees down, nobody on the road except me. No prob for me. I got to within a mile of my spot and the sky darkened, the wind doubled, and the snow got really intense. Figures. Started to worry that nobody else would be there.
I dont like to be in big surf by myself.
I sat for a minute or so once I got there then got in with two other guys and we surfed in that spot ALL BY OURSELVES for four hours. It was so windy I decided to go in with my boogie board. Wind has zero effect on it so I dont miss any waves. I get disregarding looks by people sometimes as I sit on my sponge with flippers but that never lasts as they watch me catch monster wave after monster wave, as they struggle onto occasional waves with high winds blowing them backwards off the lip.
I'd say that I get ten times the wave counts than surfers but who is counting? I have easier duck diving, and gettin back out to the takeoff spot is a breeze. One additional advantage is that I have four limbs to get me through the water, not two, making it a much better workout. I'm usually sore for a full week after storms when I sponge.
As I looked towards shore to align myself with the poles, I was blinded by snowflakes driven like buckshot directly into my eyeballs making it impossible to see. At some point I just stopped caring.
Every twenty minutes or so a giant set would come in and destroy us. We all paddled towards them so we could get on one but as hard as we scrambled, it was to no avail, we always seemed to just get crushed. Nobody minded.
One wave I took was HUGE. I took a late drop, was in the barrel for a fraction of a second, then it was like a nuclear bomb went off. All my body parts were scattered all over the place and all I could do was hold my breath and wait for the abuse to end and float me to the top again. Thats exactly what happened, but it turned out that that wave was the first of four or five, with each wave abusing me similarly.
I really did not care. The horizon cleared and I paddled back out for more "fun!"
STORMS/WAVES keep coming!
Really decent waves keep pounding us. My back and shoulders are still recovering from last week. They will be repaired for this swell, hopefully.
Spozed to get six more inches of snow, but who knows. Hopefully not, its time to work at landscaping!!!
Who goes to work when there is surf like this??? LOSERS! I guess I am a loser, because I woke up this morning agonizingly sore still so I went to work instead. Im a loser!
My saving grace, though, is this forcast. Im planning on my muscles healing themselves enough by wed/thursday so I can be in these big waves again, behaving like a child in a bathtub
Drove there, got in for a few hours, went to work. Waves look better than they were, close-outs with shoulders. So tired from all the other surf, I went home, glad to be there instead of freezing in windy, cloudy, snowy winter surf.
Big blizzard coming with giant waves coming Wednesday, so I guess I gotta rest up and say goodbye to this last storm!
I was WASTED from surfing six hours yesterday. Four then two then home to pass out. Wow. This am, I got in at six am, out at eight to get warm but reason grabbed a hold of me and I decided to go to the local beach pub snd get one of these (ended up not one), and an eggs benedict:
The waves were HUGE, with seventeen second periods, unheard of around here. That long period equates to enormously powerful monsters whipped up by the demon noreaster that just charged through here.
I caught two huge lefts that towered over my head and went on and on. I stood erect as if i were bored at the end of one of them like the studs in surfer magazine to see what it felt like to show off. Kinda stupid.
Paddling back out took forever because it was very high tide and there were giant blobs of water going every which way that would, at times, make a giant incoming wave jack up and be even bigger, and at other times meet the new wave and give us a ramp to paddle over the top negating the wave face. Totally absurd situation. Made it fun!
Im going back tomorrow- leaving here at three am, get there at five, in at five thirty for a morning session with the other crazies. Cool to see the sun through the waves in early am. Hopefully get another four hours in before work.
All this surfing is giving my flab and shoulders good tone.
In at eight, out at twelve. Back in at one, out at three. Im COMPLETELY WASTED. Muscles from my calves to my neck hurt like hell. I took off on some of my biggest waves ever for me, sharing the spot with no more than one or two others all day. Heard whinng about the wind- "BOO HOO." I consider it like a giant romper room, mother nature giving you a good ride sometimes, other times completely FUCKING YOU UP. One wave I rode I thought I was going to break some teeth.
A few times, I was jostled so violently under water I was thinking that I was going to have a bit of a problem getting my next breath.
Tomorrow is going to be INSANE, with 16 second period. Thinking that I might not have ever surfed that long period wave before. Powerful swell.
What a great sport!!!