Morning patrol- first decent swell of the year, it’s not gonna be pretty because it’s been so long since I’ve been up there surfing. Loaded the body board and fins too in case surfing is too difficult... till I get back in shape. This website is pretty accurate.

And here is tonight’s actual buoy reading:

These numbers are just as good if not better than well-publicized hurricanes where people cram together on the shore to watch the power of raw nature exploding right in front of them.

I haven’t surfed (well) for almost a year. Getting back in shape will be hard and walking down into the surf through a foot of snow is always a very strange sensation. It’s not going to be pretty.

No waves. Last winter sucked. Last spring sucked. This summer sucked. This fall/ no waves really. And now... nothing. Soyyy, but nothing to write about!

​:(