A gallon of water weighs a little more than eight pounds. Imagine a gallon of water hitting you at twenty five miles an hour. Then think about waves this big grinding you up after one eentsy beentsy error in judgement or miscalculation.
The girl in this video can surf. Yup. This video makes me want to get in shape, get off the couch.
In at five, out at eleven, great way to start the day at a time when the ocean begins its flat season. Sunburned face, tight and salty skin sand on the floor of the truck.
I can't help adding this to the surfing blog. Humans are disgusting.
Wish I lived closer. I'm probably one of the farthest away regulars, showing up before the light, getting it in then going home before most people strap on their shoes. You gotta do what you gotta do. Yet all that effort is worth it when Mother Nature offers waves like this.
Left the house at three am, wetsuit on and in the water at five, out at ten then back to Trumbull. Huge strong waves, well formed after a big storm, wind blowing from Cuba to us for five days in a row. Good thing all of us know how to swim and stay calm otherwise people would get hurt. High quality surfers out there that day. In bed at eight last night, all muscles sore even now.
I paddled out and there were two other people already there, either with busy schedules or wanting the whole place to themselves, an understandable desire.
As the orange sun started to peek over the horizon it shone through the green clear glassy waves as I rode them, a colorful and unique memory of that morning I will never forget.
Finally. It's been a while. Looking forward to salt water. Big storms=big waves. Looking forward to my surfing high.