This winter the storms are coming at steady one week intervals. FOUR SUNDAYS IN A ROW, this one makes five. It looks like one hell of a storm too fri/sat/sun.
The color indicates the obvious, and the length is long fetch for large period groundswell. Long periods gather up all the little shitty waves at less than nine seconds and shoves them all into huge waves over 12-13 seconds (time between the peaks). These waves are not to be underestimated, and can do lots of damage to shorelines and boats and people. Ireland, England, Spain, France, and Portugal will be the beneficiaries of this storm in a week with waves over 50-60’ tall. Killer conditions.
Wind shifts between noon and six into favorable conditions, and that’s when you’ll see my truck there.
Just heard this again. Can’t wait for Friday, Saturday.
Songs in head. Water and coffee in belly. Testosterone in veins. Heart in throat as we slide down ten foot wave faces in 30f air with 25 mph wind.
Keeps us aliiive.
Wave sizes and intensity is growing from this morning’s predictions. Gonna be a doozy \/\/\/
Ok- the reality:
I got there- holy shit I have never been in stronger wind. Full throttle wind gusts almost knocked me over the cliff and down the global warming eroded muddy slope. My favorite place to surf looked like World War Two-era North Atlantic naval warfare movies. More white than water, totally unsurfable.
It sure was interesting to go there and see the unmolested wrath of Mother Nature having her way with mankind. Dangling state park signs whipping around dangerously on their chains. Large trees toppled over on top of power lines stretched down almost to the ground, about to snap. People’s clothing pressed against the upwind side of their bodies.
I seriously almost got knocked down a few times.
Typical winter sky. Drab. Bleak. Possesses just a smidgen of hope, like our threatened democracy.
Ok, I got there and got in around 9:30, parking lot completely full, 100+ surfers in as if it were a hurricane swell. Crowded!
Sky dreary, waves loud, front row seat as I get my wetsuit on.
No wonder the parking lot was completely filled. It was a large, perfectly formed blend of nice weather, weekend day, powerful waves, and storm winds.
It was cold- I got out and warmed up a while then got back in and surfed another three hours... didn’t get cold again! More surf coming fri/sat. Winter surf is great.