I got here on Thursday when the waves were less than perfect ( they were SHITTY), but I didn’t give a shit. I hadn’t surged for a year n a half and I was extremely out of shape. My pecs had morphed into scoops of flab and my lungs shrunk into shit. So embarrassing!

Morning patrol- first decent swell of the year, it’s not gonna be pretty because it’s been so long since I’ve been up there surfing. Loaded the body board and fins too in case surfing is too difficult... till I get back in shape. This website is pretty accurate.

And here is tonight’s actual buoy reading:

These numbers are just as good if not better than well-publicized hurricanes where people cram together on the shore to watch the power of raw nature exploding right in front of them.

I haven’t surfed (well) for almost a year. Getting back in shape will be hard and walking down into the surf through a foot of snow is always a very strange sensation. It’s not going to be pretty.

No waves. Last winter sucked. Last spring sucked. This summer sucked. This fall/ no waves really. And now... nothing. Soyyy, but nothing to write about!

​:(

My absolute love and adoration for the ocean grows exponentially each time I go into the surf. The ocean somehow reconnects me with my origins, whatever they are. I feel whole when I enter the water. When I slink along into deeper and deeper water, it’s like a monarch butterfly pupating from the caterpillar stage into the butterfly; I leave all the BULLSHIT behind and focus on survival.

I paddled out on my shortboard and surfed happily until I realized that my out of shape shoulders couldn’t power me through the water efficiently anymore. I slunk back in and switched to the bodyboard, and went right back out. Four or five hours later I realized I was DONE. I paddled back to my truck, got dressed, and relinquished my coveted parking spot to a lucky recipient.

My little ditty doesn’t end here. When I got home, each time I bent over, a tablespoon of salty ocean water gushed out of my nose. That’s what happens when waves tumble you shorewards. The sinuses store ocean water under pressure from crashing, and releases it when you bend over up to ten hours later when you least expect it.

Then, today, I felt like I was under the influence of schedule 1 illegal drugs (I WASN’T!!!). I was god damned high as a kite from the endorphins gotten from exerting my physical self for two straight days in mother nature’s fury.

Now, I do not know how anyone out there feels about what I just said, and I really don’t give a shit.

My point is that if you want to feel good about yourself, the world as a whole, politics, your financial situation, a crappy relationship, work, etc, find a sport!

Sink your teeth into that sport!! Attack it! Regain your youth by rediscovering how good it feels to leave your world behind you and become YOU again. That’s something too many people forget about (or never knew about to begin with).

Work. Relationships. Finances. Children. Aging parents. Customers. Siblings. Personal issues. ASSHOLE pWesident tWUMP’s degradation of our democracy (tRump is America’s number one ENEMY), all get left behind when you enter the ocean. All you want is to have fun and live to tell people about it.

Never surfed?

​I highly recommend that you give it a try if you haven’t. Without the hope in my life that surfing gives me, I would be dead inside.

70f, full summer, still wind, 17 second periods, big and growing waves.

It’s really exciting to surf in conditions like this. Not that crowded.

I surfed for hours in warm clear water, just waiting for it to build up but I guess it will not be getting bigger like it was supposed to. That’s ok, season just started. I’m going to sleep really hard tonight after four hours of non-stop paddling!

The sky gets lighter little by little, minute but minute, mile by mile.

HOWEVER, I do not give one shit about that surf session. It was solely preparatory work for the upcoming winter season which starts tomorrow, with the upcoming hurricane “Teddy,” a category 4 hurricane that will pulverize ships at sea and give surfers waves for four days. Big waves. Dangerous waves. Fun waves.

This is Tuesday, and if you would like to see the power of global warming combined with the ocean, hop in the car and go see it for yourself Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday.

Not quite dawn patrol, but close. Phone cameras are really getting better.

Just a few in the water.