I got here on Thursday when the waves were less than perfect ( they were SHITTY), but I didn’t care, it was just good to be in salt water again.

I hadn’t surfed for a year n a half and I was extremely out of shape. My pecs had morphed into scoops of flab and my lungs shrunk into lumps of coal. So embarrassing!

​Its gonna hurt getting back into shape. Thanks for nothing, covid-19.

Thursday was pretty unsurfable. Friday was beautiful. Perfect conditions as you can see from these videos.

Morning patrol- first decent swell of the year, it’s not gonna be pretty because it’s been so long since I’ve been up there surfing. Loaded the body board and fins too in case surfing is too difficult... till I get back in shape. This website is pretty accurate.

And here is tonight’s actual buoy reading:

These numbers are just as good if not better than well-publicized hurricanes where people cram together on the shore to watch the power of raw nature exploding right in front of them.

I haven’t surfed (well) for almost a year. Getting back in shape will be hard and walking down into the surf through a foot of snow is always a very strange sensation. It’s not going to be pretty.

No waves. Last winter sucked. Last spring sucked. This summer sucked. This fall/ no waves really. And now... nothing. Soyyy, but nothing to write about!

​:(

70f, full summer, still wind, 17 second periods, big and growing waves.

It’s really exciting to surf in conditions like this. Not that crowded.

I surfed for hours in warm clear water, just waiting for it to build up but I guess it will not be getting bigger like it was supposed to. That’s ok, season just started. I’m going to sleep really hard tonight after four hours of non-stop paddling!

The sky gets lighter little by little, minute but minute, mile by mile.

HOWEVER, I do not give one shit about that surf session. It was solely preparatory work for the upcoming winter season which starts tomorrow, with the upcoming hurricane “Teddy,” a category 4 hurricane that will pulverize ships at sea and give surfers waves for four days. Big waves. Dangerous waves. Fun waves.

This is Tuesday, and if you would like to see the power of global warming combined with the ocean, hop in the car and go see it for yourself Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday.

Not quite dawn patrol, but close. Phone cameras are really getting better.

Just a few in the water.