At least I got my parking spot which means I can stay the entire day until my body cannot function anymore. This cool pup was chasing rocks into the shallow water. So cool to watch, but his asshole owner didn’t toss tennis balls, just rocks, frustrating the dog every time. Yet the invisible storm brought thousands of people from hundreds of miles away. I’m lucky to be part of this culture!
My absolute love and adoration for the ocean grows exponentially each time I go into the surf. The ocean somehow reconnects me with my origins, whatever they are. I feel whole when I enter the water. When I slink along into deeper and deeper water, it’s like a monarch butterfly pupating from the caterpillar stage into the butterfly; I leave all the BULLSHIT behind and focus on survival.
I paddled out on my shortboard and surfed happily until I realized that my out of shape shoulders couldn’t power me through the water efficiently anymore. I slunk back in and switched to the bodyboard, and went right back out. Four or five hours later I realized I was DONE. I paddled back to my truck, got dressed, and relinquished my coveted parking spot to a lucky recipient.
My little ditty doesn’t end here. When I got home, each time I bent over, a tablespoon of salty ocean water gushed out of my nose. That’s what happens when waves tumble you shorewards. The sinuses store ocean water under pressure from crashing, and releases it when you bend over up to ten hours later when you least expect it.
Then, today, I felt like I was under the influence of schedule 1 illegal drugs (I WASN’T!!!). I was god damned high as a kite from the endorphins gotten from exerting my physical self for two straight days in mother nature’s fury.
Now, I do not know how anyone out there feels about what I just said, and I really don’t give a shit.
My point is that if you want to feel good about yourself, the world as a whole, politics, your financial situation, a crappy relationship, work, etc, find a sport!
Sink your teeth into that sport!! Attack it! Regain your youth by rediscovering how good it feels to leave your world behind you and become YOU again. That’s something too many people forget about (or never knew about to begin with).
Work. Relationships. Finances. Children. Aging parents. Customers. Siblings. Personal issues. ASSHOLE pWesident tWUMP’s degradation of our democracy (tRump is America’s number one ENEMY), all get left behind when you enter the ocean. All you want is to have fun and live to tell people about it.
I highly recommend that you give it a try if you haven’t. Without the hope in my life that surfing gives me, I would be dead inside.
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.