70f, full summer, still wind, 17 second periods, big and growing waves.
It’s really exciting to surf in conditions like this. Not that crowded.
I surfed for hours in warm clear water, just waiting for it to build up but I guess it will not be getting bigger like it was supposed to. That’s ok, season just started. I’m going to sleep really hard tonight after four hours of non-stop paddling!
The sky gets lighter little by little, minute but minute, mile by mile.
HOWEVER, I do not give one shit about that surf session. It was solely preparatory work for the upcoming winter season which starts tomorrow, with the upcoming hurricane “Teddy,” a category 4 hurricane that will pulverize ships at sea and give surfers waves for four days. Big waves. Dangerous waves. Fun waves.
This is Tuesday, and if you would like to see the power of global warming combined with the ocean, hop in the car and go see it for yourself Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday.