Surfing hurricane teddy today

70f, full summer, still wind, 17 second periods, big and growing waves.

It’s really exciting to surf in conditions like this. Not that crowded.

I surfed for hours in warm clear water, just waiting for it to build up but I guess it will not be getting bigger like it was supposed to. That’s ok, season just started. I’m going to sleep really hard tonight after four hours of non-stop paddling!