I got here on Thursday when the waves were less than perfect ( they were SHITTY), but I didn’t care, it was just good to be in salt water again.
I hadn’t surfed for a year n a half and I was extremely out of shape. My pecs had morphed into scoops of flab and my lungs shrunk into lumps of coal. So embarrassing!
Its gonna hurt getting back into shape. Thanks for nothing, covid-19.
Thursday was pretty unsurfable. Friday was beautiful. Perfect conditions as you can see from these videos.