Hurricane Larry!

I got here on Thursday when the waves were less than perfect ( they were SHITTY), but I didn’t care, it was just good to be in salt water again.

I hadn’t surfed for a year n a half and I was extremely out of shape. My pecs had morphed into scoops of flab and my lungs shrunk into lumps of coal. So embarrassing!

​Its gonna hurt getting back into shape. Thanks for nothing, covid-19.

Thursday was pretty unsurfable. Friday was beautiful. Perfect conditions as you can see from these videos.