Typical winter sky. Drab. Bleak. Possesses just a smidgen of hope, like our threatened democracy.
Ok, I got there and got in around 9:30, parking lot completely full, 100+ surfers in as if it were a hurricane swell. Crowded!
Sky dreary, waves loud, front row seat as I get my wetsuit on.
No wonder the parking lot was completely filled. It was a large, perfectly formed blend of nice weather, weekend day, powerful waves, and storm winds.
It was cold- I got out and warmed up a while then got back in and surfed another three hours... didn’t get cold again! More surf coming fri/sat. Winter surf is great.
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.