Typical winter sky. Drab. Bleak. Possesses just a smidgen of hope, like our threatened democracy. Ok, I got there and got in around 9:30, parking lot completely full, 100+ surfers in as if it were a hurricane swell. Crowded! Sky dreary, waves loud, front row seat as I get my wetsuit on. No wonder the parking lot was completely filled. It was a large, perfectly formed blend of nice weather, weekend day, powerful waves, and storm winds. It was cold- I got out and warmed up a while then got back in and surfed another three hours... didn’t get cold again! More surf coming fri/sat. Winter surf is great.
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