Left the house at three am, wetsuit on and in the water at five, out at ten then back to Trumbull. Huge strong waves, well formed after a big storm, wind blowing from Cuba to us for five days in a row. Good thing all of us know how to swim and stay calm otherwise people would get hurt. High quality surfers out there that day. In bed at eight last night, all muscles sore even now.
I paddled out and there were two other people already there, either with busy schedules or wanting the whole place to themselves, an understandable desire.
As the orange sun started to peek over the horizon it shone through the green clear glassy waves as I rode them, a colorful and unique memory of that morning I will never forget.