10-30-17

Got to where I wanted to surf in the wee hours. Nobody in the two more popular spots, good cause I want to go over to the left where there’s rarely any fighting or bitching between hotheads who lose sight of what’s important- having fun.

Its hard to have fun when meatheads young and old are assholes.

I never get involved in those stupid squabbles. I’m too old and too smart to be an asshole (others might disagree) yet there are some people in RI who need to have frontal lobotomies and chemical neutering just because they ruin everyone else’s karma. It’s often the same people, and it’s usually at those two spots. Obey the rules, don't be selfish, be nice and everything should be ok. If you mess up, apologize to the other guy. It's like driving your car, guys! Fighting in the waves is like road rage, nobody wins and both combatants look like jerks.

I Jumped off the rocks and fell eight feet on to the top of a rumbling wave that broke my fall. Paddled through the freight trains over to Greg, Peter and Matt who were already out, surprised to see them there because they usually surf at the other two spots. They’re the best surfers and testosterone does not affect them- we never see them yelling or fighting with others. Kinda refreshing to see great surfers rise above (Dave Levy was still in bed).

I knew it was gonna be big but I didn’t know it would be so big and perfect as well. Warm water, wind, giant waves, great surf, early morning.

Matt told me “paddle in on the foam ball and ride from there” so I did and he was right. The white water cradled me gentler than I thought it would, down the wave n on to the glassy part of the wave in front of me towering over my head. The four of us shared this great spot for a long time till the crowd came then I ditched that spot (I hate crowds and jostling).

I Surfed at the other two spots till two, got out n got warm, checked messages then got back in on the bodyboard with fins (arms were tired) and surfed for another two hours, getting an incredible amount of waves, afraid of nothing.

Theres a LOT to lose if you make a mistake at those two spots, with the waves charging towards the boulders, exploding upon them in a display of violence. One new bodyboarder decided to get out by climbing up those slippery boulders and with waves spaced at 12 second periods that gives no time. He was destroyed, wave after wave tossing him asunder till the set passed. I saw him get back in the water an hour later with blood all over his right arm, washing off with each dip into the water only to ooze back out moments later. Chumming. Not a day or a place to learn.

Then finally, the long-awaited assholes started yelling, swearing at each other over what I did not care or know. Realized my time had come- got into my truck and drove home, completely filled with my addictive endorphin drug after seven hours or so of surfing. Awesome day.