Huge no name storms come along and give waves as good as hurricanes sometimes. Warm water, sunny skies- sunburned face today. Muscles really sore from six hours of paddling, feels great.
I met a guy taking pics and he gave these to me. I’ll put his name up when I get it.
Yesterday I dropped forever on a very large wave when I was out before many people came, huge drop, bottom turn, sailed along the wave forever for a long paddle back.
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.