Huge no name storms come along and give waves as good as hurricanes sometimes. Warm water, sunny skies- sunburned face today. Muscles really sore from six hours of paddling, feels great.
I met a guy taking pics and he gave these to me. I’ll put his name up when I get it.
Yesterday I dropped forever on a very large wave when I was out before many people came, huge drop, bottom turn, sailed along the wave forever for a long paddle back.