Big Maria

Better pics tomorrow

Biggest waves I've ever seen here ever. Biggest waves I've ever surfed. Three to five people out only. Most people looked and left to go surf more sheltered spots. I like it big and gnarly.

If Puerto Rico got slammed by this mother of all storms like they say (biggest waves of all the storms this fall), then Trump better get his ass off twitter and do his damn job and get those poor people help. If a hurricane can send mammoth waves to us from thousands of miles away just imagine what happens when it passes directly over your island!

Trump always redirects the national dialog from important stuff like helping desperate people on PR to nonsensical stuff like taking a knee. National embarrassment!!! Maria destroyed PR SIX DAYS AGO and they're still begging for help, what was he waiting for? I guess PR doesn't matter to him. Sorry for the political stuff but it bothered me all day long.

​This is was one big damn storm!!!

Water really warm. No wind. Thick grey fog obscuring incoming waves and points of reference. Get in, paddle out, and get swept half mile east, paddle way way out then back west. MAMMOTH waves breaking half a mile-one mile out.