BIG STORM = BIG WAVES

I got into the surf before six, really foggy and wind slowly blowing. DARK. Because the boards are already packed for our trip to hawaii tomorrow, I bodyboarded instead of surfed. Three hours and a hundred waves later, I got out, numb from the knees down and THOROUGHLY wiped out. Body boarding scores three times the waves and is ten times more trying on the body. Its easier to get back out after ditching a wave, and I have zero fear, taking the biggest waves available. Helps to have been a swimmer once, knowing the water as if I lived in it, complete and absolute comfort. Its hard to do both though- switching back and forth is something thats easier said than done. Peole make fun of me when I ride a sponge but I care not. Not at all. I have a lot of fun doing both sports, and the single biggest advantage of body boarding is the ripped and shredded muscles I go home with, my shoulders actually hurt. Thats a workout that you cannot get surfing, and impossible to safely get at the gym!

Tomorrow at this time, my son and I will be going 600 miles an hour 33,000' up in the sky, hurtling towards Oahu.

Sun is coming up earlier now. Means I get up and go surfing earlier. Crack of dawn, nobody there, whole place to ourselves. Pic coming manyana!