So I’m gonna do just that.
I'm still feeling the endorphins coursing through my constricted arteries, feeding the high into my brain from surfing yesterday. Serotonin is pumping addictive exercise-related highs into my soul... so glad and happy that I have a source of these life giving drugs so I don't need the other illegal ones to get the same feeling... it’s Mother nature’s reward for using the human body for what it was designed to do: EXERT EFFORT.
I just gotta say to anyone who is reading this- grab a surfboard and start that sport, you will thank me for the rest of your life. You do not need to slide down the face of a twenty foot wave to get high, a two footer will do. You will meet all sorts of people, see all sorts of wildlife and natural scenes that land lubbers can't see from their man-made safe perspective.
You can surf until you slither into the coffin (it may be the reason you slither into the coffin), and I have thought of that often at times when I have found myself in sketchy scenarios. Yet, I keep going back, and I have always known that if the waves got to be enormously gigantic, I would still go out into them just because it’s fun and because of the feelings that last for up to a week afterwards. I know how to survive in big water (at least I THINK I know). I know how to swim better than most, and I know the one rule- breathe only ABOVE the water's surface. Follow that rule and you live to surf another day. Keep good music in your head, and bring it into the water with you.
Look around, and don't take mother nature for granted- appreciate it when you see a great sunset. Share your thoughts with the unknown dude next to you, you can never tell where your little outspoken observations will take a conversation.
Wetsuit draped on mirror getting rinsed one raindrop at a time in prep for whatever comes our way this week, if anything. Surfing for me is like a carrot hanging from a stick in front of a mule- thoughts of surfing again keep me going through the endless toil of work at the nursery. As I look at this pic, I realize it looks like it's time for a new wetsuit but crawling into that thing is like cuddling up in front of a fire with a good book, it's really supremely comfortable.