Great waves today

Holy shit, I’m totally exhausted. I surfed for three hours then paddled in n switched boards for a leg workout on the body board for another three hours.

Body boarders need to earn respect. If people disrespect you, they basically pretend that you aren’t there. As a result, when I’m body boarding, I always go for the biggest waves, the ones others shy away from. Once they see you sliding down huge waves, they usually don’t drop in on you, and back off if you shout at them as they are about to slide down the wave that you are already surfing on.

Some assholes don’t respect the rules, and need an angry talking to, like the kid who got a scolding from me after half a dozen drop ins. He deserved it.

Typical post-storm sunset beautifying my soul on the way home followed by a pure white full moon in a clear black night.

Winter solstice was yesterday so the days are going to get brighter and longer morning and afternoon from now till June 21.

I had this song stuck in my head the entire surf session. Good tune!