Huge storm Sunday pushed up hurricane-sized waves Monday before dawn n I was there first, whole plact to myself and one other guy for the entire time we were there. Big, close to 18-20' faces, with beefy thicknesses and steep well-formed shoulders.
We could have gone down the road where the waves would have been perfectly formed, but we prefer the crowdless, gnarly, more sizeable meaty waves that the camera on a cellphone have difficulty capturing.
When I got out it was close to an hour before the feeling came back into my toes again, wind was howling. It was one of the most beautiful sunrises I have ever seen. The water is so cold the algae is dead making the water a clear silvery light grey-blue and when the waves obscure the sun so low in the sky one can see the true color of the water.
What a great sport!
Today I crawled in before the sun and got out after three hours, feet completely dead white and numb for an hour afterwards. Perfectly shaped perfect waves.
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.