Holy shit, Jose!!!

Huge dangerous surf all last week, all this week, and apparently for the foreseeable future.

Huge clean waves peeling perfectly left for distances measured with odometers not yardsticks, peeling right into the wind for barrels big enough to camp out in.

Long rides=long paddles back out. Torrential rain, dark ominous skies, scary dark mountains charging in from the horizon. Paddle for your life!