Huge dangerous surf all last week, all this week, and apparently for the foreseeable future.
Huge clean waves peeling perfectly left for distances measured with odometers not yardsticks, peeling right into the wind for barrels big enough to camp out in.
Long rides=long paddles back out. Torrential rain, dark ominous skies, scary dark mountains charging in from the horizon. Paddle for your life!
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.