4’@11 sec yesterday. Not great, not bad. Warm water, nice sun- beautiful sport. Video and more tomorrow. Growing long period waves coming.
Saturday 10/6/18 update- “lame-O” surf this week peaking Friday night and petering out after that. What’d you expect from a mid-Atlantic hurricane moving away from us? Way sad considering that last year was epic- can’t cry over spilled milk though, it is what it is.
Im surprised at the number of guys who go surf on logs without leashes. I saw them out Wednesday and Friday. One of those ass*oles fell on a wave right in front of me and I dove to avoid having my face bashed in as his board zipped by. When I came up he asked if I was ok. My usual thing to do (passive aggressive) is to ignore and paddle past the offender, which is what I did. He shouted “is that a yes or a no???”
I kept paddling away from that asshole.
About an an hour later some guy came up to me between waves and started saying stuff to me - I had forgotten the incident. I said that I did not know what he was talking about- really meant it! He reminded me that he was the guy without the leash, tried telling me that with an 11' longboard a leash does not really make any difference. I guess it was an apology of sorts, but I wanted to hear nothing more from him. I replied that I got hit by "one of those" once in Hawaii, referring to his 11' log, and ever since then, I had zero respect for people who surf without leashes. He kept trying to tell me that leashes were not really important for guys like him, and I said "because guys like you are not the ones getting injured by guys like you- its OTHER people like ME who get hurt." He paddled away saying loudly for all to hear "well, I tried to apologize but it fell on deaf ears." I said at equal volume "No it didn't fall on deaf ears, surfing without a leash is UNCOOL. Get a leash."
He is one of the guys who drive at night with those really bright headlights, as long as HE can see, then to hell with everyone else. One would think that people in a sport all kinda think the same- respect for fellow participants, safety being top notch concern. I just don't get it. As soon as he was 20' away from me, all was forgotten by me, I try not to dwell on problems, I go there for fun and the three day burn my muscles feel afterwards.