Eight to ten feet at ten sec., south swell, northwest wind- can’t ask for more than that!
I am leaving the nursery attended by an unqualified sales person and leaving at noon for the two hour drive. I’m adopting the Hawaiian concept from now on.
In hawaii, if the swell is up, plumbers are a no show, construction halts, worksites are stalled. That’s just the way it is there! Got a tooth to be pulled? Pull it yourself because the dentist is hangin’ ten at pipeline, tough shit for you.
I tell the unqualified guy to write down whatever people want to buy, let them take it home, and I’ll collect the moolah Saturday.
I value these hurricane swells highly and do not take their arrival lightly. This fall hurricane season has SUCKED in comparison to last year, so I’m going tomorrow, and a bevy of nude frolicking beauties on the beach (quoting Twain from his “Journal of the Sandwich Islands” book written circa 1860) could not divert me from my quest.
Im also hoping to see my favorite woman surfer there (blog entry sept 14th) to tell her she made it into my surf blog. No prize money there for her but sure will make her feel good about herself plus I gotta get that story off my chest.
COPYRIGHT INFRINGEMENT lawyers have been trying to extort a thousand dollars from me for loading a stupid pic of Hurricane Ophelia last year. As a result, I deleted 66% of this website and all pics not taken by me personally. If you peruse this site and come across idiotic blog posts with no supporting pics, that’s why. If anyone knows how to fight these “individuals,” sure would appreciate some advice. They have a well thought out SCAM going. The letter above is the best I could do for now. Lawyering up comes next.
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.