I LOVE the ocean, in all it's forms. When its flat, we go scuba diving. When it's hurricane force wind/waves, you will see my truck in the parking lot. Count me in! I ain't dead yet, and because I absolutely love adverse weather, and can handle myself in east coast conditions (a LOT different than pacific ocean), I choose to keep on keepin' on.
Some people call me crazy. But who is the crazy one? I'm not staying home safe and sound when there is a storm to participate in. Wetsuits are for keeping you warm. Experience is a well of knowledge that keeps you safe, allows for pursuit of passion using calculated risk taking. Swimming skills allow for extreme condition experiences. I would be certifiably insane (like tRUMP) if I did not surf in storms like blizzard Grayson. It's fun!!!
Im almost 60 years old, and do not plan on changing one thing about my habit of surfing storms. I figure that as soon as I do back off my chosen sport is tha very moment that I begin my slow, inexorable march into the 6' deep hole.
To each his own!
Grayson waves were big, fast, cold, and unforgiving. The hard wind blew me backwards many times when I was about to stand up, an embarassing sight to see- a classic beginner mistake brought to expert surfers on a silver platter when the wind is blowing 50 mph.
I adjusted my ankle leash and on the very next wave the god damn velcro let go. Thats like the 50th time thats happened with this leash!
I am going to put this leash up here on this website- DONT BUY THIS LEASH!!!