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In at eight, out at twelve. Back in at one, out at three. Im COMPLETELY WASTED. Muscles from my calves to my neck hurt like hell. I took off on some of my biggest waves ever for me, sharing the spot with no more than one or two others all day. Heard whinng about the wind- "BOO HOO." I consider it like a giant romper room, mother nature giving you a good ride sometimes, other times completely FUCKING YOU UP. One wave I rode I thought I was going to break some teeth.
A few times, I was jostled so violently under water I was thinking that I was going to have a bit of a problem getting my next breath. Tomorrow is going to be INSANE, with 16 second period. Thinking that I might not have ever surfed that long period wave before. Powerful swell. What a great sport!!!
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AUTHOR
Hi, my name is David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back. Archives
June 2020
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