The second surfer in this clip is 52 years old, has two kids and his mother died Wednesday and they were there this morning celebrating not her death but her life. She gave him his first surfboard when he was very young and he was extremely proud of her for bringing so many things into his life at such a young age. He wished he had spent more time with her as an adult and was going to apply that life lesson to his relationship with his kids. All this unfolded between waves that were bigger earlier in the day. Not perfect conditions, but stayin' alive and happy.
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.