Im sitting lazily on my couch writing this with jealousy in my heart. Hurricane Ophelia did not bless us with her presence, going to the Emerald Isle instead. I’ve met British and Irish surfers at the hostel in Hawaii and not only are they really tough gutsy surfers but also so much fun to hang around with... jokes hidden in normal conversation. You gotta pay attention or they pass right over your head. So I guess I shouldn’t begrudge them for stealing my hurricane, my waves, my endorphins- I guess they have rights too.
Here on the home front, there ain’t any surfing in sight, not even ripples, all we can do is think back to 9/26/17 and be happy with our memories.
I guess thats the price we pay for choosing this sport. It’s kinda like fishing or hunting I imagine, when you come home empty handed.
Ophelia is the surfer’s version of:
”you shoulda seen the one that got away!”