Another nor'easter coming tues/wed. Too early to tell but it looks like we might get something out of it. These storms kick up waves as good as any hurricane but nobody is ever there meaning you got the whole place to yourself. I guess I shouldn't be spewing this out there for everyone to read, but it could be on the front pages of the New York Times and the crowd size would remain the same- people just do not like surfing in horrible storms. I find it to be fun.
When I came home to my kid last Tuesday, I told him over and over again: "I'M HIGH AS A KITE!"
I say that each time I surf a lot. I've told him that surfing is the best drug I ever did. There is a backwards logic to this statement, bluntly hinting at the superior nature of exercise as a form of physical and spiritual enlightenment.
I have explained my theory of the evolution of hormones rewarding humanoids for hard work chasing down wooly mammoths to him his entire life. My theory is that after excruciating hard work like hunting with spears, mother nature rewarded humans not just with a full stomach but also with the best "feel-good" drugs ever created.
One does not get these drugs by sitting on the couch eating potato chips. You gotta pay the price.
They left out SEROTONIN- that's a biggie. If you were to look up what each of these hormones does inside your body you would think Jeff Sessions would want to classify them as class 1 restricted drugs and jail people for their use. These are the best feel good chemicals in the world!!!
Go get high by exercising. If you can't find a wooly mammoth to chase down and kill with your bare hands, pick up a surfboard. Maybe a bike. Go garden. Do SOMETHING!!!
An amazing study came out this past week that found that elderly people (over 50) who worked out regularly and HARD had immune systems that were similar to twenty year olds. This was true for 85 year olds also! The T-cells responsible for immune response as measured by the length of the "T" prevent cell death (aging) and attack pathogens. Additionally, the muscle tissue resembled young people also.
So you see, all those shitty difficult jobs around the yard, and those horrible hard workouts actually benefit you in ways unseen until now. I find it's better to have fun when my heart is pumping at 120 BPM instead of groaning about whatever yard work I've got to do, but when I'm faced with a shitty hard job, at least I find solace with the knowledge that it's keeping me healthy and relatively younger than my peers.
I've seen people who I consider to be my elders and found out that they are younger than me. Maybe it's because they never discovered the pure joy of having a passion in their soul like surfing for me, and biking for others, and I feel sorry for them in a way. I do not subscribe to the Archie Bunker American vision of growing older.
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.