Just memories now, no surf in sight.
I mentioned a few times on this blog some of the cool sights I've seen while surfing. For me, surfing isn't just about surf like it is for a lot of other surfers. I've met few who comment on anything around them other than what happened to them on their last wave. Long after those discussions fade and are forgotten, my memories of one particular phenomenon persist.
I usually get into the water before the sun peeks up over the horizon. Traffic is nonexistent for my long drive, I have the whole place to myself usually, and I get my surf in then go to work, missing only half a day.
Sometimes the sky is so dark I can't see the waves coming and I've really got to be on my toes, OR ELSE! When the sky gets lighter and lighter and finally shows the sun, one of the most awesome sights in the world is ready to be seen by early birds like myself- seeing the sun through the wave if the waves are big enough and the wind is light.
I couldn't even find pictures of this on the internet, only the one above which is close to what I'm talking about, so it's apparent that I've got to get out the gopro and snap some myself and repost.
I actually remember each and every wave when I witnessed this. I remember where I was surfing when it happened, and really look forward to it happening again.