This is a panoramic shot at six before I got in. One reason I go early. No traffic, just two or three other people in the water with me.
Really decent waves for five or six hours. Cold wind blowing hard. Gotta surf as much as possible to get ready for Hawaii trip.
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.