People I know think I’m crazy for surfing like (when) I do. There’s a lot involved just getting up there but pandora makes it fun at that time of night by playing music I’ve never heard. I don’t care that I have no idea what they are saying- I love this music. In this song, the stripes in the road acted like a metronome for the beat. I found my mind drifting like the truck did... no matter, I was the only one on the road at that crazy hour. Turns out this song is from 1984.
You might think that it’s a long lonely drive with stripes on the road slowly hypnotizing me and making me crash but no! Not with great music. After the "murdera" song, this one came on. It also was a "song/road stripe" mind game. When I got home, I bet a friend $15,000 that she couldn’t sing along "word for word" with this song. Safe bet. What a great Karaoke song, I think it'll be tried next summer on Block Island (try it!):
I also heard this song and actually understood what was being sung and now I have a new appreciation for Ziggy:
During these songs then whilst surfing I thought of the environment, the water I surf in, the election, our corrupt government, our MORALLY CORRUPT “president.” I wondered who the hell could vote for that 'individual' and his cowardly republican buddies (I am or used to be republican). I realized that anyone who could vote for him/them had been raised much differently than I was.
Drill for oil off the Rhode Island coast??? NO- ABSOLUTELY NOT. I cannot put into words how much hate I have in my heart for that “man” tRUMP. Thought I could escape thinking about it but this Marley song brought my hate for him flooding to the fore again... the current governmental perversion is never too far away from my consciousness.
I got to where I knew I was going to surf and it was one of the most beautiful sights, although I was half an hour late. I like getting in when it's black and I have the entire place to myself. Peter is in this video below, easy to see if you squint.
I got in and surfed clumsily till I found my groove. The sun slowly crept up over the horizon turning the entire morning a burning orange. As I sat waiting for waves, I could tell the big ones because they blocked the light. LOOK OUT!
One wave in particular rose over me before breaking and was see-through and glassy and the orange horizon was fuzzily coming through the green wave creating some otherworldly new color never seen on any color chart. I duck dove through the face to find the orange horizon returning as soon as I shook the water out of my eyes like a mangy dog. Sorry for the tiresome descriptives, but that's exactly what went through my mind as it happened.
”Comfortably Bummed” update: I met the girl who drives the bummed car who said her bf made the bumper sticker. I gave her a couplea bucks and he is going to send one to me. Can’t wait. I told her I could relate to the sticker, esp after last Monday’s session. Perspective, people, perspective.
I also met the guy who gave me the drone shots from last year hurricane Maria 9/26/17. He is going to send me shots from today.
Got the bummed sticker today. I gotta say it’s pretty strange to walk up to a total stranger (esp a girl) and compliment her on her bumper sticker. I wouldn’t blame her for thinking not nice thoughts about someone like me (me), but I’m a nice guy and I know that but she doesn’t. Next time I see her I’ll thank her and that’ll be that so she does not think I have ulterior motives-hey, I just liked that bumper sticker!
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.