   Drove there, got in for a few hours, went to work. Waves look better than they were, close-outs with shoulders. So tired from all the other surf, I went home, glad to be there instead of freezing in windy, cloudy, snowy winter surf.
Big blizzard coming with giant waves coming Wednesday, so I guess I gotta rest up and say goodbye to this last storm!
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AUTHOR
Hi, my name is David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back. Archives
December 2019
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