It was supposed to be big and almost hurricane-like, just the way I like it. Huge waves, dangerously deadly winds, trees down, nobody on the road except me. No prob for me. I got to within a mile of my spot and the sky darkened, the wind doubled, and the snow got really intense. Figures. Started to worry that nobody else would be there.
I dont like to be in big surf by myself.
I sat for a minute or so once I got there then got in with two other guys and we surfed in that spot ALL BY OURSELVES for four hours. It was so windy I decided to go in with my boogie board. Wind has zero effect on it so I dont miss any waves. I get disregarding looks by people sometimes as I sit on my sponge with flippers but that never lasts as they watch me catch monster wave after monster wave, as they struggle onto occasional waves with high winds blowing them backwards off the lip.
I'd say that I get ten times the wave counts than surfers but who is counting? I have easier duck diving, and gettin back out to the takeoff spot is a breeze. One additional advantage is that I have four limbs to get me through the water, not two, making it a much better workout. I'm usually sore for a full week after storms when I sponge.
As I looked towards shore to align myself with the poles, I was blinded by snowflakes driven like buckshot directly into my eyeballs making it impossible to see. At some point I just stopped caring.
Every twenty minutes or so a giant set would come in and destroy us. We all paddled towards them so we could get on one but as hard as we scrambled, it was to no avail, we always seemed to just get crushed. Nobody minded.
One wave I took was HUGE. I took a late drop, was in the barrel for a fraction of a second, then it was like a nuclear bomb went off. All my body parts were scattered all over the place and all I could do was hold my breath and wait for the abuse to end and float me to the top again. Thats exactly what happened, but it turned out that that wave was the first of four or five, with each wave abusing me similarly.
I really did not care. The horizon cleared and I paddled back out for more "fun!"
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.