Here its going to be pretty decent surf- too bad its saturday. It will be great no matter where you go!
Oahu surf tomorrow. Im speechless. Waves with a 20 second period??? Insane! Monster death-causing conditions for everyone except the best of the best surfers. 50' plus waves.
Simpleton pic trying to illustrate wave shapes east coast vs Pacific.
Huge periods between waves means huge mountains of water with extreme power charging towards you if you arent careful.
East coast windswell with under ten second waves have less "c" wave thickness. As the period increases, the thickness of the wave actually seems to logarithimically increase.
These kinds of waves are rare in the Atlantic, common in the Pacific. These types of waves are incredibly insane, incredibly powerful.
Pacific waves are usually measured on the back side of the waves. A ten foot Hawaiian wave can have a front face well over twenty feet.
A ten footer here with our shorter wave periods we would call "head and a half." Measly in comparison!
Its so strange to paddle up hill when evading these demons, thought water was flat?
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.