Left at four, in the water at 6:15, first one again, had the whole place to myself for a while. Irregular waves, some really really long rides head high to head and a half with light offshore breeze out of the northwest that picked up and swung around to NE turning our playground into a choppy waste of time. Around 10:30 I decided to get up and go (as soon as I did, almost everyone else got out also).
Way out on the point there were these huge breakers that sometimes turned into waves that ran the length of the break. Most of the other waves that broke there just flopped over and turned into nothing.
In the middle I sat and went left over and over again, something not many people want to do right there. The problem with going left there is that you get pounded by the incoming foam ball from the point break, not fun and really tiring.
Thats the price one pays for being goofy-footed.
Its obviously going to be another 4am departure to get the biggest of this swell, to be first in the water and have the whole place to myself, to enjoy the quiet solitude of big wave violence before the sun comes up. I have new warm boots to try on for the first time, and the likelyhood that there will not be many people out because its Christmas eve...
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.