Surf yesterday

I didn’t take any good pics of waves but yesterday was 7’ @ 10 seconds in full sun with light offshore wind- ideal conditions for an early winter surf session.

Was kinda crowded and I found myself sitting for too long so I switched to the body board and swam really hard for three hours, caught tons of waves then scraggled back on spaghetti-flimsy legs back to my truck. What a workout.