Surfed yesterday

...took my kid- he looked like he didn’t want to go but he went anyway, good sport that he is. Waves were twice as big as they were supposed to be and he knew it. Paddling out he got a case of claustrophobia and yelled at me over the roaring waves that he wanted to go back in to shore. No problem! I know how claustrophobia feels. His fear was being all covered up by a wetsuit so he went in saying that he would just get dressed and turn the truck and heat on and read his book.

I helped him take off the fins that we had just bought for that day and paddled out for a while into huge but shitty waves. Shitty because the wind was coming in hard from the east. This spot is shitty with an east wind- needs N-NW-W to in order to comb the waves and organize them. Makes all the difference in the world, believe me.

I caught just a few, paddled hard for almost two hours and joined my son only to find that he couldn’t get out of his wetsuit when he had paddled back in, and had been sitting there for two hours with it on!

WORD- kids do not like to surf in the winter. Don't even try, all it will do is test your relationship with your kid, who needs that?

ps- I have lots of wetsuits for sale that are barely used. anyone interested? Kids wetsuits, brand new. It’s so funny, here I am talking people out of getting their kids into the water when young then trying to find a home for the wetsuits I bought my kid in my own failed attempt.