Unbelievable strength in big waves with 15 second periods, all the force of all those otherwise smaller 5-6-7 second waves pack a punch when they are focused into fewer but more forceful individual waves.
Irma was thousands of miles away but the waves made us think that she was just off the coast. Great surfing on a really nice day!
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AUTHOR
Hi, my name is David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back. Archives
December 2020
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