Holy crap! Six straight hours in waves like this. Huge perfectly formed waves with insane wind spraying salt water for a couple hundred feet behind the wave with the force of a riot control hose.
When you get off a wave (or get crushed by it) you gotta swim back to where it's safe, as if it's for your life, or you are gonna get crushed by the next waves in the set.
Perfectly formed lefts and rights, many close outs so you had to be careful where you sat.
High winds kept the crowd to a minimum.
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.