Theres never been a better fall for surf. Every day for the past two weeks or so, and for the next week there will be epic surf conditions.
My old body is wrecked from paddling for seven hours in enormously powerful waves.
I saw pro surfer Greg Levy do a bottom turn on a wave, head up toward the lip at full speed and snap a turn under the lip of the wave so expertly and fast that he was actually upside down while doing it.
Ive never seen anyone do that before!!!