Years ago as I crawled out of the water like a ragged Robinson Caruso after surfing during a hurricane swell I saw a rock that exemplified the swell that I had just enjoyed so much so I brought it home and scribbled everything I could think of about that day with a sharpie onto the rock.
I've been doing it ever since. Now there are are hundreds of them all over the place. Big huge gnarly waves= big gnarly rocks get scribbled on. Perfect waves get perfect rocks, etc. Kid is with me, his name goes on the rock especially if he has a first ( shortboard ride, barrel, hurricane). So many of them they had to go outside where the rain and sun got to the ink and now they're just ocean rocks. The ones in the pic came from the kitchen from this winter where they are starting to gain nuisance status yet I can't break the habit. Every time I go surfing a rock comes home. Sometimes I forget to write on a rock then it's just a rock. Yet it's easy to see which ones are ocean rocks and which ones are actually "just rocks." I wonder how many thousands of years waves have to splash against them to wear them down into such perfectly shaped smooth orbs. Comments are closed.
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