I'm sorry. Ever tried to tell someone how great your dog is? Bet the other person never truly understood how great your dog is after your description so I will not try to tell you about today's waves. My phone can't even capture the essence.
I will however mention a coupla things. I dove down really really deep today to escape one wave and after the freight train passed over me I heard boulders/rocks/pebbles grinding around somewhere from that waves power. Mother Nature is incredibly powerful.
I also saw circular swirling clouds rotating around some distant center, and a comorant (I think) deep diving bird resurfaced next to me with a fish two inches long in its beak. It flinched. It shook. It convulsed many times 'till the fish was head first inside his beak. Then in just a few moments that fish was just a memory for me as it slid down the cormorants long black neck- a scaly present for the bird from mother natures grand design.
I also saw rule breakers- you know the type from driving on the highway. People who only think of themselves and if they endanger others or ruin someone else's wave, they care not. They are called "KOOKS" by locals because they show their inexperience by doing really stupid, dangerous things. When water weighs eight pounds plus per gallon and waves (tens of thousands of gallons each) are going twenty miles an hour, people can and do get hurt. I think the word "kook" is very generous. When I see such behavior, I leaf through my inventory of insulting names, and "kook" pales in comparison. I guess that is a feather in the cap of the people who surfed before us to be a little more toned down in their critiques of others.
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.