Surf/love/music

I sat for a while realizing I did not want to sit any more and got in to the waves you see in this pic... only one in at that point, then someone else got in. I got swept a quarter mile off to the left and had to paddle way back over in order to position myself. No more than six people in at the same time today and I can tell you why!

Why you ask??? Because it was total WAR! Huge waves, tremendous wind, strong currents, yet the waves for the most part were organized with shoulders. Totally surfable but there’s only so much of a beating one can take. I lasted three hours, not all of them highly productive.

Ill try to describe the late afternoon views I witnessed today. No doubt will need editing tomorrow.

​After an hour I saw a seal repeatedly surface about 40’ away from me. I hoped she wouldn’t be pissed by my presence or misidentify me for a male of her kind- I really try to stick to my own species.

​There were ducks of all kinds coming up near me eating some morsel from the depths I couldn’t identify. Seaweed or clams, who the hell knows! They cared not about getting crushed by huge waves. I did.

I looked to my left to see the sunlit white violent water churning over the top of the steep wave faces leaving hollow barrels big enough to stand up in without getting your head knocked off. Beautiful sunlit scenes all day long.

To my right I saw waves barreling over with the sun beaming through the water turning everything a golden shimmering out of this world priceless color. Wave lips charging forward over the top of the glistening smooth wave faces
reflecting brilliant yellow-gold-silver directly into my soul, priceless memories hard to put into words.

At one point around three the western horizon was covered by a thin layer of clouds backlit by the setting yellow-orange sun. I imagined the color the clouds turned to be some kind of silky pollen-like gold that got sprinkled all over everything within reach.

Im lying in bed now writing this, so sore and glad that I have this sport in my life. I don’t care at all about material possessions, all I want is for my life to be filled with days like these.

FRIDAY MORNING BUOY:

Thursday night update (huge surf):

Imagine 19’ waves with ten second periods- pretty good. Add NW wind south swell and you got it made! Add to that the fact it’s a weekday and a nasty weather system and you got it made X 10. It’s about the same prediction as hurricane Florence but there won’t be 1/100th of the people up there because there’s no hype about this storm like there was the hurricane.

Pics tomorrow will prove or disprove my theory (11/17/18 theory proven).

Im predicting that tomorrow will be really really good, and I’m drooling at the thought that we have turned the corner from warm crowded waves into the winter hard core group who always go no matter what the weather (me for sure- for over 15 years at least).

I really need to stop trying to predict the future though, I ain’t that good at it.

Last spring I developed a passion for a band called Tribal Seeds at the same time this cool woman caught my eye. Everything was going well, running smoothly, on course ‘till I came up with the bright idea to use one passion to further another.

I would occasionally text her songs from “tribal seeds” thinking hearts would melt and fabric would decompose into a pile at her feet.

​So much for predicting the future, from now on I’m sticking to the present.

She got to the point where she would delete delete delete. I got to the insulted place where I would then text her World War Two French and German polka/parade music (really horrible music) thinking it was so funny I could extricate myself from the giant hole I was standing in.

At some point in developing/crumbling relationships, the current status comes to light and you are either IN or you are out on your ass sitting on the curb. I got comfortable out there as I realized I had to gather up my “Tribal Seeds” songs and politely bow out of the race.

My curse for predicting the future in this case, though, is that every time I hear Tribal Seeds songs that I thought she would absolutely love that she actually absolutely hated, my visions of her come back into my consciousness.

The words in the song and the unusual reggae beat always have my mind swirling with images of bodies intertwined (ummm, hers and mine that is)- that’s my curse for being a smart ass predictor of the future.

So I guess it’s safer to just stick to “looking forward” to stuff instead of “predicting” stuff, whether it’s waves, love, or life! Accordingly, I'm looking forward to surfing tomorrow in whatever the future has in store for me, and whatever that is, I’ll just be happy to be surfing again!