This place was the only place I could go to get close with my phone but anyone watching this can get a feel for how great this sport is. Shimmering water, clear blue skies, nice warm air in early fall.
Yet another storm way off the coast pushing strong surf up for surfers. Even the little shorebreak waves were so strong they could knock you over. This is a longboard paddle board wave. A quarter mile to the left is the steeper better waves.
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AUTHOR
Hi, my name is David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back. Archives
December 2020
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