Everything went as planned yesterday. I drove through what seemed like too-windy conditions for surf but when I got there, it all seemed fine. Huge swells towering over us. Perfect waves, no real crowd, warm water, clear skies with still strong sun. The too-short video... what'd you expect??? I drove a coupla hours, sun sets in a few hours, gotta get in a super quick video then get in!
Paddled out and saw the woman in question but found myself distracted not by her but what I went there for- really great waves. I told her a lame partial story about how she owed me $30 but I didn't finish, and probably never will, that tale is all but forgotten. I did see her in characteristically confident fashion slide down the face of a approx 12' wave and when she stood up on her board she whooped happily. BYE!
I surfed as long as I could, looking to my right to see the orange afternoon sky outline the lighthouse, coast guard house and other structures. The lighthouse blocked the sun completely so the silhouette of the lighthouse was perfect. Brilliant burning orange sunset, completely black lighthouse- a sight I'll never forget, it's different every time I go there. I mentioned something to the guy next to me- something like "Holy shit! Check out the lighthouse- what a beautiful sport!!!" All I got in response was "Yeah." Easy to understand his non-appreciation because as I said, the waves were needing attention too.
Hi, my name is
David Benjamin and I started swimming in Chappaqua, NY., swam for Badger swim team, Mercersburg Academy, NC State University, then Westport YMCA masters. I got bored of the ol' back and forth of competitive swimming and the high cost of skiing. Surfing took over and I never looked back.